s yet to be introduced
into the island. Even the wonderful volante can only make its way in
the environs of cities. Most of the so-called roads resemble the bed
of a mountain torrent, and would hardly pass for a cow-path in
America. Nothing more clearly shows the undeveloped condition of the
island than this absence of means for internal communication. In
Havana and its immediate environs the omnibus and tramway afford
facilities which are liberally patronized, though when the latter was
first introduced it was considered such an innovation that it was most
bitterly opposed by the citizens. Like the railroads, the tramway was
the result of foreign enterprise, and has doubled the value of
property in any direction within a couple of leagues of the city
proper.

One of the most petty and most annoying experiences to which the
traveler is subjected is the arbitrary tax of time and money put upon
him by the small officials, of every rank, in the employment of the
government. By this system of small taxes upon travelers, a
considerable revenue is realized. Where this is known, it keeps
visitors away from Cuba, which is just what the Spaniards pretend to
desire, though it was found that the Creoles did not indorse any such
idea. Americans leave half a million dollars and more annually in
Havana alone, an estimate made for us by competent authority.
Passports are imperatively necessary upon landing, and if the visitor
desires to travel outside of the port at which he arrives a fresh
permit is necessary, for which a fee is charged. In vain do you show
your passport, indorsed by the Spanish consul at the port from which
you embarked in America. The official shrugs his shoulders, and says
it is the law. Besides, you are watched and your movements recorded at
police headquarters; though in this respect Berlin is quite as
uncomfortable for strangers as is the city of Havana. Despots must
hedge themselves about in every conceivable way. Be careful about the
contents of your letters sent from or received in Cuba. These are
sometimes delivered to their address, and sometimes they are not. Your
correspondence may be considered of interest to other parties as well
as to yourself, in which case an indefinite delay may occur in the
receipt thereof.

Of all the games and sports of the Spaniards, that of the bull-fight
is the most cruel, and without one redeeming feature to excuse its
indulgence. During the winter season, weekly exhibiti