s is a desire for large hoop earrings. Silver, or even
brass will answer, if gold cannot be obtained.
As we rode off that delicious morning towards our destination, mounted
upon a couple of bright little easy-going Cuban ponies, with their
manes and tails roached (that is, trimmed closely, after a South
American fashion), the cool, fresh air was as stimulating as wine. At
first we passed down the long avenue of palms which formed the
entrance of the plantation, and which completely embowered the road,
like the grand old oaks one sometimes sees lining the avenues to rural
English estates. The delicious fragrance of the morning atmosphere,
still moist with dew, the richness of the foliage, and the abundance
of fruit and flowers were charming beyond description. We glided along
at an easy gait over the roads, which in this thickly populated
district were smooth and admirably kept, lined on either side by
hedges of the flowering aloe, intermingled with many sweet-scented
shrubs, all trimmed with mathematical precision. But the gayest and
prettiest hedges were composed of the bitter orange, all aglow with
small yellow fruit, hanging in almost artificial regularity and
abundance. This immediate district was at that time in possession of
wealthy owners, who vied with each other in rendering their
surroundings attractive to the eye. Now and again we met little gangs
of trusted slaves, who had been sent out on special errands, all of
whom recognized Don Herero, and made him a respectful obeisance, which
he very carefully returned. There is a strict degree of etiquette
sustained in regard to these small matters between the slaves and
whites, which goes far in maintaining respect and discipline.
A ride of a couple of leagues or more brought us finally to a gentle
rise of ground, which opened to our view the ocean, and a line of
coast extending for many miles east and west. It was still quite
early, and a morning mist hung over the quiet Caribbean Sea, which
stretches away southward towards the Isle of Pines and the more
distant isle of Jamaica. A gentle breeze began at that moment to
disperse the mist and gradually in conjunction with the sun to lift
the veil from the face of the waters. For a considerable time,
however, only a circumscribed view was to be had, but Don Herero
observed that the mist was quite unusual; indeed, that he had seen
such a phenomenon but once or twice before on Cuban shores. He assured
us that with th
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