ereas the late Dr. Curtis, of North
Carolina, has distinctly informed us that it is cooked and eaten
in the United States, and that he has partaken of it. He includes
_Lactarius insulsus_, Fr., and _Lactarius subdulcis_, Fr.,[g]
amongst esculent species; both are also found in this country, but
not reputed as edible; and _Lactarius angustissimus_, Lasch, which
is not British. Species of _Lactarius_ seem to be eaten almost
indiscriminately in Russia when preserved in vinegar and salt, in
which condition they form an important item in the kinds of food
allowed in their long fasts, some _Boleti_ in the dried state
entering into the same category.
The species of _Russula_ in many respects resemble _Lactarii_ without
milk. Some of them are dangerous, and others esculent. Amongst the
latter may be enumerated _Russula heterophylla_, Fr., which is very
common in woods. Vittadini pronounces it unsurpassed for fineness of
flavour by even the notable _Amanita caesarea_.[h] Roques gives also an
account in its favour as consumed in France. Both these authors give
favourable accounts of _Russula virescens_, P.,[i] which the peasants
about Milan are in the habit of putting over wood embers to toast, and
eating afterwards with a little salt. Unfortunately it is by no means
common in England. A third species of _Russula_, with buff-yellow
gills, is _Russula alutacea_, Fr., which is by no means to be
despised, notwithstanding that Dr. Badham has placed it amongst
species to be avoided. Three or four others have also the merit of
being harmless, and these recorded as esculent by some one or more
mycological authors: _Russula lactea_, Fr., a white species, found
also in the United States; _Russula lepida_, Fr., a roseate species,
found also in lower Carolina, U.S.; and another reddish species,
_Russula vesca_, Fr., as well as _Russula decolorans_, Fr. Whilst
writing of this genus, we may observe, by way of caution, that it
includes also one very noxious red species, _Russula emetica_, Fr.,
with white gills, with which some of the foregoing might be confounded
by inexperienced persons.
The chantarelle _Cantharellus cibarius_, Fr., has a most charming and
enticing appearance and odour. In colour, it is of a bright golden
yellow, and its smell has been compared to that of ripe apricots. It
is almost universally eaten in all countries where it is found,
England excepted, where it is only to be met with at the "Freemason's
Tavern" on state
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