er in its uncultivated or in a cultivated state. In
Britain many thousands of people, notably the lower classes, will not
recognize any other as fit for food, whilst in Italy the same classes
have a strong prejudice against this very species.[A] In Vienna, we
found by personal experience that, although many others are eaten, it
is this which has the most universal preference, yet it appears but
sparingly in the markets as compared with others. In Hungary it does
not enjoy by any means so good a reputation. In France and in Germany
it is a common article of consumption. The different varieties found,
as the results of cultivation, present some variation in colour,
scaliness of pileus, and other minor features, whilst remaining true
to the constituent characters of the species. Although it is not our
intention to enumerate here the botanical distinctions of the species
to which we may call attention, yet, as mistakes (sometimes fatal) are
often being recorded, in which other fungi are confounded with this,
we may be permitted a hint or two which should be remembered. The
spores are purple, the gills are at first delicate pink, afterwards
purple; there is a permanent ring or collar round the stem, and it
must _not_ be sought in woods. Many accidents might have been spared
had these facts been remembered.

The meadow mushroom (_Agaricus arvensis_) is common in meadows and
lowland pastures, and is usually of a larger size than the preceding,
with which it agrees in many particulars, and is sent in enormous
quantities to Covent Garden, where it frequently predominates over
_Agaricus campestris_. Some persons prefer this, which has a stronger
flavour, to the ordinary mushroom, and it is the species most commonly
sold in the autumn in the streets of London and provincial towns.
According to Persoon, it is preferred in France; and, in Hungary, it
is considered as a special gift from St. George. It has acquired in
England the name of horse mushroom, from the enormous size it
sometimes attains. Withering mentions a specimen that weighed fourteen
pounds.[B]

One of the commonest (in our experience the _most_ common) of all
edible fungi in the public markets of Vienna is the Hallimasche
(_Agaricus melleus_), which in England enjoys no good reputation for
flavour or quality; indeed, Dr. Badham calls it "nauseous and
disagreeable," and adds that "not to be poisonous is its only
recommendation." In Vienna it is employed chiefly for m