rial, and on their
heads a kind of bandeau or under-cap, turned up at the ears, surmounted by
a white handkerchief, folded square and placed horizontally upon the head,
like the plinth of a Grecian capital.
We drove to St. Pair, a small watering-place about two miles from
Granville, nicely situated in a little sandy bay. In the middle of the
church is the monumental tomb of St. Pair and another saint (St. Gault);
their effigies, with mitre and crozier, side by side.
Next day we had a beautiful drive to Avranches. A winding road leads up to
the town, which is situated on an elevated plateau, commanding a view of
Brittany on one side and of Normandy on the other--a broad expanse of land
and sea, the former extending over the valley of the See, with its network
of small streams interlacing each other; Mont St. Michel appears in the
distance. The finest view is from the Botanic gardens. The cathedral of
Avranches fell at the end of the last century, but a model of it is
preserved in the museum. One stone remains, carefully surrounded by
massive chains, with an inscription recording that it was the spot where
Henry II. received absolution for the murder of Thomas a Becket:--"Sur
cette pierre, ici a la porte de la cathedrale d'Avranches, apres le
meurtre de Thomas Becket, Archeveque de Cantorbery, Henri II., roi
d'Angleterre, duc de Normandie, recut a genoux, des legats du pape,
l'absolution apostolique, le dimanche xxii Mai, 1172." The cemetery is at
the foot of the hill; the tombs are of granite, with the letters in
relief: among them we read many well-known English names.
At Pontorson we could find no remains of the castle of Du Guesclin, which
was nearly surprised by the English under a captain named Felton, during
the absence of Du Guesclin, with the connivance of the "chambrieres" of
the Lady Typhaine, his wife. Already their scaling-ladders were against
the wall, when Juliana, Du Guesclin's sister, agitated by a troublous
dream, awoke suddenly, seized a sword, rushed to the window, and upset
three English who were coming up the ladder, and they were killed by the
fall. The enemy retired. Next morning Du Guesclin, on his return to
Pontorson, met Felton and his party, attacked them, and took them
prisoners. When Typhaine saw Felton, she tauntingly exclaimed, "Comment,
brave Felton, vous voila encore! C'est trop pour un homme de coeur comme
vous d'etre battu, dans une intervalle de douze heures, une fois par la
soeur
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