the town are
the remains of an aqueduct, with ivy-covered arches, said to be the work
of the middle ages. It is a good point of view for sketching the
cathedral, and the public gardens also command a fine prospect.
The approach to Granville is by a sharp descent. The town is built at the
foot of a rocky promontory, the streets rising in terraces cut in the
rock, on the top of which are the citadel and the church on the
culminating point. It has been styled a Gibraltar in miniature. A fort was
built here by Lord Scales, who commanded the English forces in the
Cotentin in the time of Henry VI., and it was taken by surprise by
Estouteville, the hero of Saint Michel. The church is cruciform in plan,
the arms of the cross being equal. The axis of the nave is inclined to the
left, as we afterwards observed that of the Creizker at St. Pol de Leon.
It has been lately restored, and the painted windows are offerings of the
different families of the town. The view from the top of the "Roc" is very
extensive, including the Chausey islands and Jersey. A steamer runs twice
a week to St. Helier. A deep cutting in the rocks opens on the beach,
where the bathing-machines are stationed--curious little canvas huts
carried upon poles, like sedan chairs. The tide here rises 45 feet. It was
to Granville the Vendean army, commanded by La Rochejacquelin, appointed
generalissimo at twenty-two, marched after their fatal step of crossing
the Loire, expecting to make a junction with the English; but Granville
was vigorously defended, contrary winds retarded the arrival of the
English fleet, and the retreat from the coast, where it might have been
supported by the English, was the ruin of the Royalist army. Of the 80,000
who crossed the Loire sixty days before, only 8000 remained to make their
last heroic resistance at Savenay, which ended the great Vendean war. A
few months after, the hero of this noble army, the chivalrous Henri de la
Rochejacquelin, fell from the bullet of a soldier whose life he had
spared(1):--
"Lorsqu'en des jours trop malheureux
Palissait l'astre de la France;
Quand les coeurs les plus valeureux
Semblaient perdre toute esperance,
L'antique honneur, la sainte foi,
Brillerent dans cette contree;
Mourir pour son Dieu, pour son roi,
Fut le serment de la Vendee."
The costume of the Granville women is singular. They wear long black
cloaks or mantles, edged with a frill of the same mate
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