rt landed in 1548 to marry the young Dauphin, afterwards Francis II.
In commemoration of the event, she afterwards caused the little chapel of
St. Ninian to be built close on the water's edge. It is not more than
fifty feet long, and has an eastern flamboyant window, with others in the
side walls. The arches are fast going to decay, the stone altar is also
sculptured. When we saw it, the interior was filled with bundles of
broom-branches and poultry. It is strange this little chapel, built by the
Queen of two Kingdoms, should be suffered to fall to ruin for the lack of
a trifling outlay.
Here, two hundred years later, Prince Charles Stuart landed after
Culloden, in the French frigate the 'Heureux,' sent by the French
Government to facilitate his escape, having eluded, through the chances of
a fog, the pursuit of the English cruisers; and here he knelt, in the
chapel of his ancestress, to return thanks for his deliverance.
The church of Roscoff has a curious pierced steeple, like many of those in
Finistere, and some alabaster bas-reliefs of the fourteenth century, with
numerous boxes of skulls. A ship rudely sculptured by the porch, and
another by the east window, show that the fishermen and ship-owners
contributed to the building of the church. By the shore is a rock of
grotesque form, and opposite, about three miles from Roscoff, is the
pretty island of Batz, which derives its name--Breton "batz," a stick--from
the rod used by St. Pol de Leon to work his miracle.
People were busily employed in boats collecting the goemon, which they
pile in heaps along the shore. The great curiosity of Roscoff is its
enormous fig-tree, in the garden of the Capucine convent, said to be two
centuries old. It is supported by stone pillars, and is, we were informed,
above 300 feet in circumference.
We returned that evening to Morlaix: the viaduct by moonlight had a most
picturesque appearance. Next morning we proceeded by rail to the station
of St. Thegonnec, where nothing in the shape of a vehicle was to be had to
convey us to the town--nearly a mile and a half distant--but the ricketty
two-wheeled mail cart. At the little cabaret, which bears the important
name of Hotel de la Grande Maison, we procured breakfast. The church has
been restored. It is rich in carvings, spoiled by gilding, the altars and
canopied pulpit especially. Opposite to the last are two coloured
"retables." The high altar, with two side altars and two smaller on
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