per tray was $2, and the apples were delicious.

At night it was very cold, the thermometer falling to 13 deg. below the
freezing point. I was sorry to learn from my men that the prospects
of grass further south were small.

At the village of Bocoyna (elevation 7,100 feet) we were 400 miles from
San Diego by the track we had made. Bocoyna is a corruption of the
Tarahumare Ocoina (oco = pine; ina = drips; meaning Dripping Pine,
or Turpentine). Here I had to stop for two days, because no less
than six of us, including myself, were suffering from the grippe,
which a piercing, dry, cold wind did not tend to alleviate. However,
as the worst cases did not last more than five days, we soon were all
well again, though the Mexicans were almost overcome by the effects
of the disease.

The presidente here was a powerful-looking half-caste and very
original. After I had read to him twice my letter from the governor
of the state, in which the people were told, among other things,
to promote the success of the expedition in every way, especially by
selling us what provisions we needed and not to overcharge us, he,
by way of obeying the orders of his superior, immediately ordered
that not more than $6 should be charged for a fanega of corn. He
also had at once four nice, fat hens killed and sold them to us at
the market price.

After we passed Bocoyna, the country for ten miles was flat, but
fertile. It was gratifying to observe that here the Indians had some
ranches with considerable land still left to them. We passed several
such homesteads lying close together, and as many as four yokes of oxen
were ploughing, each attended by a Tarahumare, whose entire clothing
consisted of a breech-cloth. The Indians here are very numerous and
they are still struggling to resist the encroachments of the whites
upon their land, though the ultimate result is in all cases the same.

Chapter VII

The Uncontaminated Tarahumares--A Tarahumare Court in Session--The
Power of the Staff--Justice has its Course--Barrancas--Excursion
to the Gentiles--Tarahumare Costumes Simple and
Inexpensive--Trincheras in Use Among the Tarahumares.

We were lucky enough to secure a guide who, spoke the Tarahumare
language very well, and our next stop was at the pueblo of Cusarare
(a Spanish corruption of Usarare, usaka = eagle), an Indian village
situated in a rather rough country full of weathered porphyry
rocks. We made camp a few miles