nd the room in
which it is hung, so this strange spire seems to lean over upon you
at every point, as you walk round the church. Indeed, I believe it
was only found out several centuries after its erection, that it
absolutely leaned more in one direction than another. It is a
remarkable sight from the railway as you approach the town from a
distance. If it may be said reverently, the church, standing on
comparatively a hill, not only lifts its horn on high, but one like
that of a rhinoceros, considerably curved. Just outside the town
stands the house in which George Stephenson lived his last days, and
ended his great life of benefaction to mankind; leaving upon that
haloed spot a _biograph_ which the ages of time to come shall not
wash out.

From Chesterfield I diverged westward to see Chatsworth and Haddon
Hall. Whoever makes this walk or ride, let him be sure to stop at
Watch Hill on the way, and look at the view eastward. It is grander
than that of Belvoir Vale, if not so beautiful.

It was a pleasure quite equal to my anticipation to visit Chatsworth
for the first time, after a sojourn in England, off and on, for
sixteen years. It is the lion number three, according to the
American ranking of the historical edifices and localities of
England. Stratford-upon-Avon, Westminster Abbey and Chatsworth are
the three representative celebrities which our travellers think they
must visit, if they would see the life of England's ages from the
best stand-points. And this is the order in which they rank them.
Chatsworth and Haddon Hall should be seen the same day if possible;
so that you may carry the impressions of the one fresh and active
into the other. They are the two most representative buildings in
the kingdom. Haddon is old English feudalism _edificed_. It
represents the rough grandeur, hospitality, wassail and rude romance
of the English nobility five hundred years ago. It was all in its
glory about the time when Thomas-a-Becket the Magnificent used to
entertain great companies of belted knights of the realm in a manner
that exceeded regal munificence in those days,--even directing fresh
straw to be laid for them on his ample mansion floor, that they
might not soil the bravery of their dresses when they bunked down
for the night. The building is brimful of the character and history
of that period. Indeed, there are no two milestones of English
history so near together, and yet measuring such a space of