temperance
inns of Inverness, reaching it between nine and ten at night. Here
I spent a quiet Sabbath, which I greatly enjoyed.

CHAPTER XVIII.

INVERNESS--ROSS-SHIRE--TAIN--DORNOCH--GOLSPIE--PROGRESS OF
RAILROADS--THE SUTHERLAND EVICTION--SEA-COAST SCENERY--CAITHNESS--
WICK: HERRING FISHERIES--JOHN O'GROAT'S: WALK'S END.

Inverness is an interesting, good-sized town, with an intellectual
and pleasing countenance, of somewhat aristocratic and self-
complacent expression. It is considered the capital of the
Highlands, and wears a decidedly metropolitan air. It is well
situated on the Ness, just at its debouchement into the Moray
Firth,--a river that runs with a Rhine-like current through the town
and is spanned with a suspension bridge. It has streets of city-
built and city-bred buildings, showing wealth and elegance. Several
edifices are in process of erection that will rank with some of the
best in Edinburgh and Glasgow. It has a long and pretentious
history, reaching back to the Romans, and dashed with the romance of
the wild ages of the country. Oliver Cromwell, or Sledgehammer II.,
Macbeth, Thane of Cawdor, Queen Mary, Prince Charlie, and other
historical celebrities, entered their names and doings on the
records of this goodly town.

On Monday, Sept. 21st, I set out with a good deal of animation on
the last week-stage of my journey, which I was anxious to accomplish
as soon as possible, as the weather was becoming unsettled with
frequent rain. Reached Invergordon, passing through a most
interesting section of country, full of very fertile straths. It
was the part of Ross-shire lying on the Moray and Beauly Firths and
divided by rivers dashing down through the wooded gorges of the
mountains. I saw here some of the most productive land in Scotland.
Hundreds of acres were studded with wheat and barley stooks, and
about an equal space was covered with standing grain, though so near
the month of October. Plantations, parks, gentlemens' seats, glens
deep and grand, fir-clad mountains, villages, hamlets and scattered
cottages made up the features of every changing view. Indeed, one
travelling for a week between Perth and Inverness comes upon such a
region as this with pleasant surprise, as upon an exotic section,
imported from another latitude.

The next day I held on northward, though the weather was very
unfavorable and the walking heavy and fatiguing. Passed what seemed
the bold and rid