ill-smelling and
unattractive; but there are no others. In all this region the Chinese
seem to have a complete monopoly of the commercial business.

[Illustration: THE WATER FRONT AT SANDAKAN.]

A hundred yards or more from the shore the hills rise steeply from
sea-level to a few hundred feet, and over these hills are scattered the
attractive bungalows of the white residents. There is also here a
handsome stone church, overlooking the bay, with a school for native
boys in connection with it. The hills farther from the town are heavily
wooded, and the timber is being sawed at mills along the shore road. On
the streets are seen men of several nationalities, Chinese, Malays,
Moros, East Indians, and occasionally a Caucasian in his customary white
suit and pith helmet; but of all these the most dignified and stately is
the Indian policeman. He is tall and slender, with frequently a fine
black beard; his head is covered with the usual white turban, set off
with a touch of red. His gray spiral puttees generally do not quite
reach the bottom of his khaki trousers, thus leaving his knees bare.
Hanging from his belt is his club, similar to those carried by American
policemen, and jangling in one hand is usually a pair of steel
handcuffs. In passing white men he often raises his hand in a formal
military salute that would be worthy of a major general. Altogether he
is a most impressive personage and, with such examples constantly before
them, it would seem incredible that the citizens should ever cause
a-disturbance. An interesting contrast was seen in a group of men,
sitting idly in the shade and watching eight little Chinese women
stagger by with a huge tree trunk that would seem too heavy for an equal
number of strong men to carry: but this is "East of Suez, where the best
is like the worst," whatever Kipling meant by that.

[Illustration: SANDAKAN FROM THE HILL.

The "Sandakan" at the Dock.]

At Sandakan the first cabin passenger list was increased 100 per cent by
the advent of a young Danish rubber man--not a man made of young
Danish rubber, but a young Dane from Singapore who had been inspecting
rubber plantations, of which there are many on Borneo.

[Illustration: BUNGALOW ON THE HILL, SANDAKAN.]

Leaving the capital city at sunset we arrived at Kudat, our next
stopping place, early the next morning. With a very similar location
this is a much smaller town than the preceding, consisting of four or
five hundred peop