no breakers on the Bar to speak
of, and the tugs came out at once with the long strings of ugly
flat-bottomed boats behind them, into which the packages were bundled
with a crash. It did not matter what they might be, over they went
slap-bang; whether they contained china or woollen goods they met with
the same treatment. I saw one case holding four dozen of champagne
smashed all to bits, and there was the champagne fizzing and boiling
about in the bottom of the dirty cargo boat. It was a wicked waste, and
evidently so the Kafirs in the boat thought, for they found a couple of
unbroken bottles, and knocking off the necks drank the contents. But
they had not allowed for the expansion caused by the fizz in the wine,
and, feeling themselves swelling, rolled about in the bottom of the
boat, calling out that the good liquor was "tagati"--that is,
bewitched. I spoke to them from the vessel, and told them it was the
white man's strongest medicine, and that they were as good as dead men.
Those Kafirs went to the shore in a very great fright, and I do not
think that they will touch champagne again.

Well, all the time that we were steaming up to Natal I was thinking
over Sir Henry Curtis's offer. We did not speak any more on the subject
for a day or two, though I told them many hunting yarns, all true ones.
There is no need to tell lies about hunting, for so many curious things
happen within the knowledge of a man whose business it is to hunt; but
this is by the way.

At last, one beautiful evening in January, which is our hottest month,
we steamed past the coast of Natal, expecting to make Durban Point by
sunset. It is a lovely coast all along from East London, with its red
sandhills and wide sweeps of vivid green, dotted here and there with
Kafir kraals, and bordered by a ribbon of white surf, which spouts up
in pillars of foam where it hits the rocks. But just before you come to
Durban there is a peculiar richness about the landscape. There are the
sheer kloofs cut in the hills by the rushing rains of centuries, down
which the rivers sparkle; there is the deepest green of the bush,
growing as God planted it, and the other greens of the mealie gardens
and the sugar patches, while now and again a white house, smiling out
at the placid sea, puts a finish and gives an air of homeliness to the
scene. For to my mind, however beautiful a view may be, it requires the
presence of man to make it complete, but perhaps that is because I