e enter we are almost sickened by the sight of more butchers'
stalls, and further on by putrid fish. This market is typical. Low
thatched booths of branches and canes are the only shops but those of
the butchers, the arcade which surrounds the interior of the building
being chiefly used for stores. Here and there a filthy rag is
stretched across the crowded way to keep the sun off, and anon we have
to stop to avoid some drooping branch. Fruit and vegetables of all
descriptions in season are sold amid the most good-humoured haggling.

Emerging from this interesting scene by a gate leading to the outer
sok, we come to one quite different in character. A large open space
is packed with country people, their beasts and their goods, and
towns-people come out to purchase. Women seem to far outnumber
the men, doubtless on account of their size and their conspicuous
head-dress. They are almost entirely enveloped in white haiks,
over the majority of which are thrown huge native sun-hats made of
palmetto, with four coloured cords by way of rigging to keep the brim
extended. When the sun goes down these are to be seen slung across the
shoulders instead. Very many of the women have children slung on their
backs, or squatting on their hips if big enough. This causes them to
stoop, especially if some other burden is carried on their shoulders
as well.

[Illustration: THE SUNDAY MARKET, TANGIER.

_Cavilla, Photo., Tangier._]

On our right are typical Moorish shops,--grocers', if you please,--in
which are exposed to view an assortment of dried fruits, such as nuts,
raisins, figs, etc., with olive and argan oil, candles, tea, sugar,
and native soap and butter. Certainly of all the goods that butter is
the least inviting; the soap, though the purest of "soft," looks a
horribly repulsive mass, but the butter which, like it, is streaked
all over with finger marks, is in addition full of hairs. Similar
shops are perched on our left, where old English biscuit-boxes are
conspicuous.

Beyond these come slipper- and clothes-menders. The former are at work
on native slippers of such age that they would long ago have been
thrown away in any less poverty-stricken land, transforming them into
wearable if unsightly articles, after well soaking them in earthen
pans. Just here a native "medicine man" dispenses nostrums of doubtful
efficacy, and in front a quantity of red Moorish pottery is exposed
for sale. This consists chiefly of braziers for