be obtained
on board, at the door of the tent a tray-full of pieces are being
converted into sun-dried rusks. Others are provided with a kind of
very hard doughnut called "fikaks." These are flavoured with anise and
carraway seeds, and are very acceptable to a hungry traveller when
bread is scarce, though fearfully searching to hollow teeth.

Then there is a goodly supply of the national food, kesk'soo or
siksoo, better known by its Spanish name of couscoussoo. This forms
an appetizing and lordly dish, provocative of abundant eructations--a
sign of good breeding in these parts, wound up with a long-drawn
"Praise be to God"--at the close of a regular "tuck in" with Nature's
spoon, the fist. A similar preparation is hand-rolled vermicelli,
cooked in broth or milk, if obtainable. A bag of semolina and another
of zummeetah--parched flour--which only needs enough moisture to
form it into a paste to prepare it for consumption, are two other
well-patronized items.

A quaint story comes to mind _a propos_ of the latter, which formed
part of our stock of provisions during a journey through the province
of Dukkala when the incident in question occurred. A tin of insect
powder was also among our goods, and by an odd coincidence both were
relegated to the pail hanging from one of our packs. Under a spreading
fig-tree near the village of Smeerah, at lunch, some travelling
companions offered us a cup of tea, and among other dainties placed
at their disposal in return was the bag of zummeetah, of which one of
them made a good meal. Later on in the day, as we rested again, he
complained of fearful internal gripings, which were easily explained
by the discovery of the fact that the lid of the "flea's zummeetah,"
as one of our men styled it, had been left open, and a hole in the
sack of "man's zummeetah" had allowed the two to mix in the bottom of
the pail in nearly equal proportions. When this had been explained, no
one entered more heartily into the joke than its victim, which spoke
very well for his good temper, considering how seriously he had been
affected.

But this is rather a digression from our catalogue of the pilgrim's
stock of provisions. Rancid butter melted down in pots, honey, dates,
figs, raisins, and one or two similar items form the remainder. Water
is carried in goat-skins or in pots made of the dried rind of a gourd,
by far the most convenient for a journey, owing to their light weight
and the absence of the prev