afford a striking contrast to the state of
the returning pilgrims, or even to that of the friends come to meet
them. These officials have their guards marching up and down between
and round about the groups, to see that nothing is carried off without
inspection.

Little by little the crowd disperses; those whose friends have landed
escort them to their homes, leaving those who will have to continue
their journey overland alone, making hasty preparations for their
evening meal. The better class speedily have tents erected, but the
majority will have to spend the night in the open air, probably in the
rain, for it is beginning to spatter already. Fires are lit in all
directions, throwing a lurid light upon the interesting picture, and
I turn my horse's head towards home with a feeling of sadness, but
at the same time one of thankfulness that my lot was not cast where
theirs is.

PART II

XXV

DIPLOMACY IN MOROCCO

"The Beheaded was abusing the Flayed:
One with her throat cut passed by, and exclaimed,
'God deliver us from such folk!'"

_Moorish Proverb._

Instead of residing at the Court of the Sultan, as might be expected,
the ministers accredited to the ruler of Morocco take up their abode
in Tangier, where they are more in touch with Europe, and where there
is greater freedom for pig-sticking. The reason for this is that the
Court is not permanently settled anywhere, wintering successively at
one of the three capitals, Fez, Marrakesh, or Mequinez. Every few
years, when anything of note arises; when there is an accumulation of
matters to be discussed with the Emperor, or when a new representative
has been appointed, an embassy to Court is undertaken, usually in
spring or autumn, the best times to travel in this roadless land.

What happens on these embassies has often enough been related from the
point of view of the performers, but seldom from that of residents in
the country who know what happens, and the following peep behind the
scenes, though fortunately not typical of all, is not exaggerated.
Even more might have been told under some heads. As strictly
applicable to no Power at present represented in Morocco, the record
is that of an imaginary embassy from Greece some sixty or more years
ago. To prevent misconception, it may be as well to add that it was
written previous to the failure of the mission of Sir Charles Euan
Smith.

I. THE RECEPTION

In a sloop-of-war sent all the w