45 feet constitutes a good
Nile--anything less than this implies a shortage of water and more or
less scanty crops; while should the Nile rise _higher_ than 45 feet
the result is often disastrous, embankments being swept away, gardens
devastated, while numbers of houses and little hamlets built on the
river-banks are undermined and destroyed.

The whole river as known to the ancients was navigable, and formed the
great trade route by which gold from Sheba, ivory, gum, ebony, and
many other commodities were brought into the country. The armies of
Pharaoh were carried by it on many warlike expeditions, and by its
means the Roman legions penetrated to the limits of the then known
world.

Hippopotamus and crocodile were numerous, and afforded sport for the
nobles, and though steamboats and increased traffic have driven these
away, on many a temple wall are pictured incidents of the chase, as
well as records of their wars.

It is natural, therefore, that on the banks of their mighty waterway
the Egyptians should have erected their greatest monuments, and the
progress of the Roman armies may still be traced by the ruins of their
fortified towns and castles, which, from many a rocky islet or crag,
command the river.

In another chapter I will tell you more about the monuments; at
present I wish to describe the Nile as it appears to-day.

Our first view of the river is obtained as we cross the Kasr-en-Nil
bridge at Cairo to join one of the many steamers by which visitors
make the Nile trip, and one's first impression is one of great beauty,
especially in the early morning. On the East Bank the old houses of
Bulak rise from the water's edge, and continue in a series of old
houses and palaces to the southern end of Rhoda Island, whose tall
palms and cypress-trees rise above the silvery mist which still hangs
upon the water. On the west the high mud-banks are crowned with palms
and lebbek-trees as far as one can see. Below the bridge, their white
sails gleaming in the early sun, hundreds of Nile boats are waiting in
readiness for the time appointed for its opening. On both banks steady
streams of people pass to and fro to fill their water-skins or jars,
while children paddle in the stream or make mud-pies upon the bank as
they will do all the world over.

The water is very muddy and very smooth, and reflects every object to
perfection; for these early mornings are almost invariably still, and
the water is unruffled by the