r dwellings are little used except
at meal-times or at night.

The guest-house is little better than the huts, except that one side
is entirely open to the air; here at least the visitor may _breathe_,
even though his slumbers may be disturbed by the sheep and cattle
which wander in the lanes. At night a fire of corn-cobs is lit, and
while its smoke serves to drive away the swarms of mosquitoes and
flies with which the village is usually infested, its warmth is
grateful, for the nights are cold, and by its light, aided by a few
dim lanterns, the simple evening meal is shared with the head men, who
count it an honour to entertain a guest.

I have described one of the poorest of the "fellah" villages, but the
traveller is often more luxuriously housed. Many of the native
landowners occupy roomy and well-appointed dwellings, often surrounded
by pretty and well-stocked gardens, where one may rest beneath the
vines and fig-trees, and enjoy the pomegranates, apricots, and other
fruits which it supplies. These houses are generally clean and
comfortably furnished after the Turkish manner. The host,
prosperous-looking and well clothed, meets his guest at the doorstep
or assists him to dismount, when, with many compliments and
expressions of delight at his visit, he is conducted to the
guest-chamber. Coffee and sweet meats are then presented, a foretaste
of the generous meal to follow, for in the homes of the well-to-do a
feast is usually provided for an honoured guest.

The food is served on the low "sahniyeh," or tray, which forms the
table, on which several flat loaves surrounded by little dishes of
salad and other condiments, mark the places of the diners; but before
eating, each person present ceremoniously washes his hands and mouth,
a servant bringing in the copper "tisht wa abrik," or jug and
basin, kept for that purpose.

The meal always begins with soup, which, greasy to begin with, is
rendered more so by the addition of a bowl of melted butter. This is
eaten with a spoon, the only utensil provided, each person dipping
into the bowl, which is placed in the centre of the table. The rest of
the meal, which consists of fish, pigeons, and various kinds of stews
and salads, is eaten with the hands, the diners often presenting each
other with choice morsels from their portion; a baked turkey stuffed
with nuts, or on important occasions a whole sheep, forms the
principal dish, which is cleverly divided by the host or prin