pretty a scene as any in Egypt; presently, no doubt,
cultivation will again appear on the barren margins of the lake above
the dam and restore to it the touch of beauty it formerly had.

It is intended still further to raise the dam, and the higher level of
water then maintained will not only entirely submerge Philae, but
practically all the villages now existing on its banks, as well as
partially inundating many interesting temples of Roman origin. It
seems a pity that so beautiful a temple as Philae should be lost, and
one feels sorry that the villages and palm-groves of Nubia should be
destroyed, but necessity knows no law, and each year water is required
in greater quantities, as the area of cultivation below extends, while
the villagers are amply compensated by the Government for their loss.

It is interesting to stand upon the dam and see the pent-up water pour
through the sluices to form huge domes of hissing water which toss
their sprays high into the air, and whose roar may be heard many miles
away, while on the rocky islands down-stream numbers of natives are
watching the rushing stream, ready to dive in and secure the numbers
of fish of various sizes which are drawn through the sluice-gates and
are stunned or killed under the great pressure of water.

There are many other interests in Assuan, which is a delightful place
to visit. The desert rides, the ancient quarries where the temple
obelisks were hewn, the camp of the beautiful Besharin, and the
weirdly pictorial Cufic cemetery which winds so far along the barren
valley in which the river once flowed--each have their attraction,
which varies with the changing light, while many a happy hour may be
spent in watching the many coloured lizards which play among the
rocks, the curious mantis and twig-insects, and other strange
specimens of insect life which abound here; while, should you weary of
sight-seeing and the glare of light, quietude and repose may be found
among the fruit-laden fig-trees of Kitchener's Island, or in the shady
gardens of Elephantine.

Such in brief is the Nile from Cairo to the first cataract, though a
great deal more might be written on this subject. The various towns
and villages passed are often very pretty, and some are of great age,
and surrounded by very interesting remains. Then there is the
enjoyment of the many excursions on donkey-back to visit some tomb or
temple, the amusement of bargaining for trophies or curios at the
v