rranged
in baskets or on shelves covered with papers of different tints. Even
the tallow-chandler renders his shop attractive by means of festoons
of candles, some of enormous size, and all tinted in patterns, while
the more important shopping streets are one continuous display of many
coloured silks and cotton goods, the glittering wares of the jeweller
or coppersmith, and the gay trappings of the saddler.

In between the shops may often be noticed small doorways, whose white
plaster is decorated by some bright though crude design in many
colours; this is the "hammam," or public bath, while the shop of the
barber, chief gossip and story-teller of his quarter, is easily
distinguished by the fine-meshed net hung across the entrance as a
protection against flies, for flies abound in Cairo, which, however
disagreeable they may be, is perhaps fortunate in a country where the
laws of sanitation are so lightly regarded.

Noise enters largely into street life, and the native is invariably
loud voiced. No bargain is concluded without an apparent squabble, and
every tradesman in the street calls his wares, while drivers of
vehicles are incessant in their cries of warning to foot-passengers.
All the sounds are not unmusical, however, for from the minarets comes
the "muezzin's" sweet call to prayer, to mingle with the jingling
bells and the tinkling of the cups of the water-sellers.

Then the donkey-boys, everywhere to be found in Cairo, add much to the
liveliness of the streets. Their donkeys are fine animals, usually
grey and very large, and their bodies are shaved in such a manner as
to leave patterns on the legs and snout, which are often coloured. The
saddles are of red leather and cloth, and from them hang long tassels
which swing as they canter through the streets, while the musical
rattle of coloured beads and the chains of copper and brass which all
donkeys wear around their necks, add their quota to the many noises of
the streets, through which in a low murmur one may distinguish the
drone of flies.

Among all the bustle and confusion, shimmering lights, and varied
colour which constitute a Cairo street scene, the native woman passes
with graceful dignity. Her features are hidden by the "bourka," or
veil, which is generally worn, but her beautiful eyes fascinate; nor
does the voluminous cloak she wears entirely conceal the dainty, if
brilliant, clothing beneath, nor the extreme beauty of her well-shaped
hands and fe