he
country renders the supposition not improbable.
The Pont de Thiel divides the territories of Rome and Neufchatel; and it
is also the limit of the French language, none of the peasants beyond
the bridge being able to answer any questions but in German. However, at
all the chief inns, in both Switzerland and Germany, some of the waiters
speak French. It is difficult to suppose a more sudden change than
presents itself to the traveller on his passing this bridge. The houses,
dress, and appearance of the inhabitants, all announce that he is
arrived in a country differing entirely from France, Savoy, and the Pays
de Vaud.
The enormous black crape head-dresses of the women have a most singular
effect, as well as their long hair, which reaches halfway down their
backs, plaited into several divisions. It is said, that in some
districts, the females after marriage, roll it round their heads. The
costume of the men much resembles that of our sailors. Cotton or woollen
caps are more worn than hats, as was the custom in England until about
the time of Henry the Eighth.
We sent our baggage by the coach to Berne, and walked three leagues to
breakfast at Anet, in German _Eis_, a large village pleasantly situated.
We observed that the direction posts had a translation into French of
the German names, &c.; a precaution very useful on the frontiers of
nations speaking two different languages. We found our inn extremely
neat, as indeed the inns generally are throughout Switzerland; and that
is one great advantage to the traveller which it possesses over France,
where it is seldom that good accommodations can be procured at a country
inn. If the inns are more expensive than in France, the comfort is
greater also. The French talk much of the rapacity of the Swiss, and
have a common saying-, "_Point d'argent point de Suisse_"; but it would
be unreasonable to expect that the Swiss should give their services
gratuitously to strangers; and, considering how much their country is
frequented by strangers, the guides, servants, &c. &c. cannot be accused
of any particularly great extortion. Still, those who expect to find
Switzerland a cheap country will be disappointed, as many of their inns
(particularly at Zurich) are more expensive than some in England. There
can be, however, no country more agreeable to travel in than this, as
the scene is continually varying, and presents a succession of lofty
mountains, forests, cultivated grounds, l
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