I had heard so much previously of the grandeur of the
scene, yet I was not disappointed with the sight. There are many falls
much greater in point of height, and I had seen two previously which
exceed the present one in that particular, but then the force of Water
was there inconsiderable and uncertain: here one of the greatest rivers
in Europe falls with inconceivable force down a perpendicular height of
from sixty to eighty feet. The colour of the Rhine is greenish, and the
mixture of the water with the foam, has a curious effect. The castle of
Lauffen hangs over the river, and appears to tremble from the force of
the Cataract.

The surrounding scenery is bold and picturesque, and when viewed from a
boat on the river, the effect is very striking. There is a _camera
obscura_ placed in an ancient castle, which projects into the fiver, and
which we admired extremely. It is supposed that the height of this
celebrated cascade is much diminished from what it was formerly, and if
we consider the vast force of the torrent which the rock has sustained
for ages, it seems but reasonable to conclude, that it must have yielded
to such powerful and long continued assaults. We remained a considerable
time contemplating this magnificent scene, and then returned through the
village of Lauffen, and observed that the spire of its _church_ was
covered with _painted tiles_, which in this district seem a common
species of decoration.

We observed the peasants in many places employed in making _cyder_,
which they but seldom think of doing except the season has proved
unfavourable for the _vines_. I was told that here, as in Burgundy, the
_last favourable vintage was that of_ 1811, and that consequently the
proprietors of the vineyards (of which the cultivation is so expensive)
were much distressed.

The red stockings of the peasants in this Canton have a remarkable
appearance, and reminded me of the dress of the theatre.

Schaffhausen is the capital of the Canton of that name, and is built on
the right bank of the Rhine. Its bridge is but lately completed, in the
place of the ancient one, constructed by _Grubenman_, which was
considered as a great architectural curiosity, but was destroyed during
one of the campaigns in this country. The town of Schaffhausen is well
built, and has a handsome appearance. Its population is calculated at
7000, and that of the Canton at 23,000.

The reformed religion was introduced here in 1529. The clergy