seemed a strange
circumstance, that while the manners and customs of the Indians have
undergone an immense change, while their cities have been destroyed,
their religion dishonoured, their princes swept away, and their whole
government modified by foreign laws, no experiment has yet been made
upon their currency.

In the midst of this strange scene, there was a stir at one end of the
plaza, and an object presented itself that at once turned my thoughts
and feelings homeward. It was a post-coach, from a Troy factory,
exactly like those seen on every road in our country, but it had on the
panel of the door "La Diligencia Campechana." It was one of the line of
diligences between Campeachy and Merida, and just arrived from the
former place. It came up on a run, drawn by wild, uncombed horses, not
yet broken to the bit, and with their breasts galled and raw from the
pressure of the collar. It had nine inside, and had an aspect so
familiar that, as the door opened, I expected to see acquaintances get
out; but all spoke a foreign tongue, and instead of being welcomed to
supper or bed by an officious landlord and waiter, all inquired
anxiously where they could get something to eat and a place to sleep
in.

Leaving them to do as well as they could, we went to the baile or ball.
In front of the quartel was a rustic arbour, enclosed by a temporary
railing, with benches and chairs arranged around the sides, and the
centre cleared for dancing. Until I saw them collected together, I did
not suppose that so many white persons were present at the fair, and,
like the men at the gambling-table, and the Indians in the plaza, these
seemed to forget that there was any other party present than
themselves. In this obliviousness I sympathized, and slipping into an
easy arm-chair, from the time of my drag through the mud in the morning
I had not so quiet and comfortable a moment, in which condition I
remained until awakened by Don Simon.

The next day was a repetition of the same scenes. In the afternoon, at
the bull-fight, I fell into conversation with a gentleman who sat next
to me, and who gave me information of some antiquities in Maxcanu, a
village four leagues distant. That I might take this place on my return
to Uxmal, it was advisable to visit the ruins on Don Simon's hacienda
the next day. Don Simon could not go with me until after the fair, and
amid the great concourse of Indians it was difficult to find one who
could serve as a g