m
which I could overlook all central Santo. To the west were the rugged,
dark-looking mountains round Santo Peak, with white clouds floating
on the summit, and a confusion of deep blue valleys and steep peaks;
northward lay the wild Jordan valley, and far away I could distinguish
the silver mirror of Big Bay. All around us rose the silent, stern,
lonely forest--imposing, unapproachable.

On our way back to camp we rested beside a fresh creek which gaily
squeezed its way through rocks and rich vegetation. A little tea
and a tin of sardines were all the menu, but we enjoyed a delightful
bath in the cool water, and had as good a wash as we could without
soap. It was a great luxury after the hot days in the coral country
without any water. While our things were drying in the bright sun,
we lay in the moss near the rushing stream, and it was like a summer
day at home in the mountains. The water sounded familiar, the soft,
cool breeze was the same, and while I lay watching the white clouds
through the bright foliage I dreamt of home. At home I had dreamt of
travel, and thus one wish follows the other and the soul is preserved
from lazy content. I almost fancied I heard the sound of bells and the
far-away lowing of cattle. And again the reality seemed like a dream
when I roused myself and saw the dark figures crouching on the rocks,
with their frizzy mops of hair and their Sniders on their knees.

The village turned out to be too dirty to spend the night in, and I
decided to go to one which seemed quite near, just across a gully. Had
I known what an undertaking it would be, I would not have started,
for the ravine was very deep and the sides unpleasantly steep;
but my boys managed the descent, over rocks and fallen trees, with
their usual cleverness. At the bottom we were rewarded by a beautiful
sight. Beneath us, in a narrow cut it had eaten through the rock,
roared a river, foaming out of the depths of the dark wilderness. It
was like one of the celebrated gorges in the Alps, only the tropical
vegetation which hung in marvellous richness and variety over the
abyss gave a fairy-like aspect to the scene. The boys did not seem
to appreciate it in the least, and prepared, sighing, for the steep
ascent. A simple bridge led across the gully; it was made of a few
trees, and even provided with a railing in the shape of a vine. The
existence of this bridge surprised me very much; for, considering
the thoughtless egotism with which