th easily enough, and half-way down
we met the other guides coming slowly up the mountain. They seemed
pleased to have escaped the tiresome climb; possibly they may have
had other reasons for their dislike of the Peak. They were rather
disappointed, I thought, that I had had my way in spite of their
resistance. They now promised to lead us back by another route, and
we descended a narrow valley for several hours; then came a long halt,
as my guides had to chat with friends in a village we passed. At last
I fairly had to drive them away, and we went down another valley,
where we found a few women bathing in a stream, who ran away at the
sight of us. We bathed, and then enjoyed an excellent meal of taro,
which one of the guides had brought from the village. Before leaving,
one of my boys carefully collected all the peelings of my food, and
threw them into the river, so that I might not be poisoned by them,
he said. A last steep climb ended the day's exertions, and we entered
the village where we were to sleep. While the guides bragged to the
men of their feats, the women brought us food and drink, and I had
a chance to rest and look about me.

I was struck by the great number of women and the very small number
of men in this place; after a while I found out the reason, which was
that ten of the men had been kidnapped by a Frenchman while on their
way to a plantation on the Segond Channel, where they meant to work
a few days. The women are now deprived of their husbands for at least
three years, unless they find men in some other village. If five of the
ten ever return, it will be a good average, and it is more than likely
that they will find a deserted and ruined village if they do come back.

This is one of many illustrations of how the present recruiting
system and the laxity of the French authorities combine to ruin the
native population. (I have since heard that by request of the British
authorities these men were brought back, but only after about nine
months had passed, and without receiving any compensation. Most
kidnapping cases never come to the ears of the authorities at all.)

As our expedition was nearly at an end, and I had no reason to
economize my provisions, I gave some to the villagers, and the
women especially who had hardly ever tasted rice or tinned meat,
were delighted. One old hag actually made me a declaration of love,
which, unfortunately, I could not respond to in the same spirit.

Night crept