n the islands, setting
aside all considerations of humanity. If the liquor traffic is not
speedily suppressed, the population is doomed.

Ambrym offers quite a different aspect from the coral islands, as
its sloping sides are seamed by streams of lava, the course of which
may be traced by the breaks in the forest, as the glowing mass flows
slowly down to the coast, congealing in the water to peculiarly shaped
jagged rocks. Every few hundred yards we find one of these black walls
on the shore in which the sea foams, and the sand that covers the
beaches is black too. In dull weather all this looks extremely gloomy,
monotonous and imposing--the war of two elements, fire and water;
and this dark, stern landscape is far more impressive than the gay,
smiling coral beach with the quiet blue sea.

My stay on Ambrym was very pleasant. By the help of Dr. B., I
was enabled to find four bright boys, willing and cheerful, with
whom I used to start out from Dip Point in the mornings, visit the
neighbouring villages, and return loaded with objects of all sorts at
noon; the afternoons were devoted to work in the house. The weather
was exceptionally favourable, and the walks through the dewy forest,
on the soft paths of black volcanic dust, in the cool, dark ravines,
with occasional short climbs and delightful glimpses of the coast,
were almost too enjoyable to be regarded as a serious duty.

The culture of Ambrym is similar to that of Malekula, as is plainly
shown by the natives' dress. The men wear the bark belt and the nambas,
which they buy on Malekula; the dress of the women is the same as that
worn in central Malekula, and consists of an apron of pandanus or
some similar fibre, wound several times round the waist; this forms
a thick roll, not unlike ballet skirts, but more graceful. It is a
pretty dress, though somewhat scanty, and the "skirts" flap up and
down coquettishly when the wearer walks. The other parts of the body
are covered with a thick layer of soot, filth, oil, fat and smoke,
for the Ambrymese are not at all fond of bathing.

The villages are open, rarely surrounded by a hedge. The houses are
rather close together, grouped irregularly in a clearing; a little
apart, on a square by themselves, are the houses of the secret
societies, surrounded by images and large drums. The dwelling-houses
are rather poor-looking huts, with low walls and roofs and an
exceedingly small entrance which is only to be passed through on