in Vao, and, with the
help of a missionary, I reached Bushman Bay, whence Mr. H. kindly took
me to Vila. There H.B.M. Resident Commissioner, Mr. Morton King, did
me the honour of offering me his hospitality, so that I was suddenly
transplanted to all the luxuries of civilized life once more. I spent
the days packing the collections awaiting me at Vila, and which I found
in fairly good condition; the evenings were passed in the interesting
society of Mr. King, who had travelled extensively and was an authority
on matters relating to the Orient. He inspired me with admiration
for the British system of colonial politics with its truly idealistic
tendencies. The weeks I spent at Port Vila will always be a pleasant
memory of a time of rest and comfort and stimulating intercourse.

In February I left for Noumea, where I hoped to meet two friends and
colleagues, Dr. Fritz Sarasin and Dr. Jean Roux, who were coming to
New Caledonia in order to pursue studies similar to mine. The time I
spent with them was rich in interest and encouragement, and in March
I returned to the New Hebrides with renewed energy.

CHAPTER XI

AMBRYM

It was a miserable little boat in which I sailed from Noumea. We
were to have started on a Monday, but it was Friday before we
got off. The boat was overloaded. On deck there was a quantity of
timber, also cattle, pigs, sheep and calves, all very seasick and
uncomfortable. The deck was almost on a level with the water, and even
while still inside the reef occasional waves broke over the gunwale
and flooded the ship. At nightfall we entered the open ocean. Now
the waves began to pour on to the deck from all sides, and the bow
of the vessel dived into the sea as if it were never going to rise
again. The night was dark, shreds of cloud raced across a steel-grey
sky, while a greenish patch showed the position of the moon. At the
horizon glistened an uncertain light, but the sea was a black abyss,
out of which the phosphorescent waves appeared suddenly, rolled
swiftly nearer and broke over the ship as if poured down from above.

I looked on without another thought save that of pity for the poor sick
calves, when the captain whispered in my ear that things looked bad,
as the ship was much too heavily loaded. In the darkness I could see
nothing but that the boat was very deep in the water, and that her
bow, instead of rising on the waves, dug into them. On deck a quantity
of water ran backward and