evel shades will result. If the wool takes up the dye-stuff
easily (as is frequently the case with goods manufactured from shoddy)
and are therefore dyed too dark a shade, then dye-stuffs have to be
used which principally dye the cotton, and a too high temperature is
to be avoided. In such cases it is advisable to diminish the affinity
of the wool by the addition of one-fifth of the original quantity of
Glauber's salt (about 3/8 oz. per gallon of water), and from
three-quarters to four-fifths of the dye-stuff used for the first lot.
Care has to be taken that not much of the dye-liquor is lost when
taking out the dyed goods, otherwise the quantities of Glauber's salt
and dye-stuff will have to be increased proportionately. Wooden (p. 173)
vats such as are generally used for piece dyeing have proved the
most suitable, they are heated with direct or still better with
indirect steam. The method which has proved most advantageous is to
let the steam run into a space separated from the vat by a perforated
wall into which space the required dye-stuffs and salt are placed.

The mode of working is influenced by the character of the goods, and
the following notes will be found useful by the union dyer.

Very little difficulty will be met with in dyeing such light fabrics
as Italians, cashmeres, serges and similar thin textiles lightly woven
from cotton warp and woollen weft. When deep shades (blacks, dark
blues, browns and greens) are being dyed it is not advisable to make
up the dye-bath with the whole of the dyes at once. It is much better
to add these in quantities of about one-fourth at a time at intervals
during the dyeing of the piece. It is found that the affinity of the
wool for the dyes at the boil is so much greater than is that of the
cotton that it would, if the whole of the dye were used, take up too
much of the colour and then would come up too deep in shade. Never
give a strong boil with such fabrics, but keep the bath just under the
boil which results in the wool dyeing much more nearly like to cotton.

#On Union Flannels.#--In this class of goods it is important that the
soft open feel of the goods be retained as much as possible, and for
this purpose no class of dyes offers so many advantages as the direct
colours. Only one bath being required, there is not the same amount of
manipulation needed in the dyeing operation, hence there is less risk
that the soft feel and woolly structure will be affected. As no