1 lb. tartar emetic in the
fixing-bath.

Before the introduction of the direct dyes the method usually
followed, and indeed is now to a great extent, is that known as
Cross-dyeing. The goods were woven with dyed cotton threads of the
required shade and undyed woollen threads; after weaving and cleansing
the woollen part of the fabric was dyed with acid dyes such as Acid
Magenta, Scarlet R, Acid Yellow, etc. In such methods care has to be
taken that the dyes used for dyeing the cotton are such as stand
acids, a by no means easy condition to fulfil at one time. Many of the
direct dyes are fast to acids and therefore lend themselves more or
less readily to cross-dyeing. For details of the dyes for cotton
reference may be made to the sections on dyeing with the direct
colours in the companion volume to this book on _Dyeing of Cotton
Fabrics_.

#Shot Effects.#--A pleasing kind of textile fabric which is now made and
is a great favourite for ladies' dress goods is where the cotton of a
mixed fabric is thrown up to form a figured design. It is possible to
dye the two fibres in different colours and so produce a variety of
shot effects. These latter are so endless that it is impossible here
to enumerate all that may be produced. It will have to suffice to lay
down the lines which may be followed to the best advantage, and then
give some recipes to illustrate the remarks that have been made. The
best plan for the production of shot effects upon union fabrics is to
take advantage of the property of certain acid dyes which dye only (p. 184)
the wool in an acid bath and of many of the direct colours which will
only dye the cotton in an alkaline bath. The process, working on these
lines, becomes as follows: The wool is first dyed in an acid bath with
the addition of Glauber's salt and bisulphate of soda or sulphuric
acid, the goods are then washed with water containing a little ammonia
to free them from the acid and afterwards dyed with the direct colour
in an alkaline bath.

Fancy or the mode shades are obtained by combining suitable
dye-stuffs.

If the cotton is to be dyed in light shades it is advantageous to dye
on the liquor at 65 deg. to 80 deg. F., with the addition of 3-1/4 oz.
Glauber's salt, and from 20 to 40 grains borax per gallon water. The
addition of an alkali is advisable in order to neutralise slight
quantities of acid which may have remained in the wool, and to prevent
the dye-stuff from dyeing the cotton too