st with 1-1/4 lb. Mandarine G,
2 oz. Wool Black 6 B, and 10 lb. Glauber's salt; then the cotton with
2 lb. Columbia Blue G.

_Blue and Orange_.--Dye the wool first with 3/4 lb. Guinea Violet B,
3/4 lb. Guinea Green B, and 10 lb. Glauber's salt; then dye the cotton
with 2 lb. Mikado Orange 4 R O.

_Green and Orange_.--Dye the wool with 3 lb. Guinea Green B, 1/4 lb.
Curcumine extra and 10 lb. Glauber's salt, then dye the cotton in the
same bath with 1-1/2 lb. Mikado Orange 4 R O.

CHAPTER VI. (p. 188)

DYEING OF GLORIA.

Gloria is a material which during the last few years has become of
considerable importance as furnishing a fine lustrous fabric at a
comparatively low price. The perfection to which the art of dyeing has
attained and the facilities now available to the dyer, enable this to
be produced more beautiful than ever, and naturally an increased
demand for it as a dress fabric has developed.

Gloria is woven from the two fibres, wool and silk, of a fine texture
to enable it to be used in the place of a silk fabric. Formerly it was
usually woven with the wool and silk yarns already dyed, especially
when a "shot" effect was to be produced, this being done by a twill
weave of the fabric and by the use of yarns of two very different
colours in the case of "shot" fabrics. By the introduction of
dye-stuffs derived from coal tar the cloth is now dyed after being
woven, care being taken to choose those which will dye the two fibres
equally well when self-shades are wanted, or those which will dye one
fibre better than the other, and thus allow a woven piece of gloria to
be dyed of two different colours. As most dyers know, the most
brilliant effects are obtained when the finished woven piece can be
dyed. Then all the grease and dirt which has become attached to it
during the operations of spinning the yarns and weaving the pieces can
be removed before dyeing, thus leaving the fabric in a perfectly clean
condition. Thus no after cleansing is required, whereas when the (p. 189)
fibres are dyed in the yarn the goods must be cleansed after weaving
to free them from dirt, and such cleaning has a somewhat deleterious
effect upon the brilliancy of the colour of the finished fabric, more
especially in the case of light colours.

Gloria may be in one colour only, a self-colour as it is called; this
case is comparatively simple, the only care that is required