itiensis_) called by the natives
Songo. They extract the sago from the trunk, and the palm always dies
after flowering. After passing through about four miles of sugar cane,
with small villages of the Indian coolies who work in the cane fields,
we left behind us the last traces of civilization. We next came to
a very beautiful bit of hilly country, densely wooded on the hills,
though bordering the broad gravelly beaches of the river were long
stretches of beautiful grassy pastures. Darkness set in as we ascended
some thickly wooded hills. The atmosphere was damp and close, and
mosquitoes plentiful, and small phosphorescent lumps seemed to wink at
us out of the darkness on every side. I had to strike plenty of matches
to discover the track, and continually bumped myself against boulders
and the trunks of tree-ferns. It was late when we arrived at the
village of Nakavu, on the banks of the Navua River, where I was soon
asleep on a pile of mats in the hut of the "Buli," or village chief.

The next morning I resumed my journey with Masirewa and two canoe-men
in a canoe, and we were punted and hauled over numerous dangerous
rapids, at some of which I had to get out. We passed between two
steep, rocky cliffs the whole way, and they were densely clothed
with tree-ferns and other rank tropical vegetation, the large white
sweet-scented _datura_ being very plentiful. The scenery was very
beautiful, and numerous waterfalls dashed over the rocky walls with
a sullen roar. Ducks were plentiful, but my ammunition being limited,
I shot only enough to supply us with food. I felt cramped sitting in
a canoe all day, but I enjoyed myself in spite of the continuous and
heavy rain.

Late in the afternoon we arrived at the small village of Namuamua,
on the right bank of the river, with the village of Beka on the
other side. We were given a small hut all to ourselves, and we fared
sumptuously on duck and boiled yams. The next morning I was shown
a curious but ghastly object, viz., a man covered with hair like a
monkey, and I was told that he had never been able to walk. He dragged
himself about on his hands and feet, uttering groans and grunts like
an animal.

I hired two fresh bearers to carry my baggage, and after we had
crossed the river three or four times we passed over some steep and
slippery hills for some distance. I managed to shoot a parrot that I
had not seen on any of the other islands. It was green, with a black
head and yello