Toward evening we arrived at the large town of Nambukaluku,
where we disembarked. Except for a few old men and children we
found it deserted, and we learned that the "Buli," who is a very
important chief, had gone to stay at the village of Natondre for
some important ceremonies for a few days, and most of the inhabitants
had gone with him. Thither I determined to go, and we set off along
a mountain path. The rain was all gone, and it was a lovely, still
evening. Suddenly I heard distant yells and shouts and the beating
of the "lalis" (hollow wooden drums), and I set off running, leaving
Masirewa and my canoe man carrying my baggage far behind, and on
turning a sharp corner I came full upon the village of Natondre
and a most interesting sight. Hundreds of natives were squatting
on the ground of the village square, and about one hundred men with
faces black and in full war paint, swinging war clubs, were rushing
backward and forward yelling and singing while large wooden drums
were beaten. They were dressed in most fantastic style, some only
with fibrous strings round their loins, and others with yards of
"tapa" cloth wound around them. Several women were jumping about
with fibre aprons on, and all had their hair done up in many curious
ways and sprinkled with red and yellow powders. Huge piles of mats
were heaped in the open square, speeches were made, and the people
all responded with a deep "Ah-h" which sounded most effective from
the huge multitude. I came up in the growing dusk and stood behind
a lot of people squatting down. Suddenly some one looked round and
saw me--sensation--whispers of "papalangai" were heard on all sides,
and looks of astonishment were cast in my direction. Certainly my
entrance to Natondre could not have been more dramatic, and I believe
that they almost thought that I had _fallen from the skies,_ which
is the literal meaning of the word "papalangai."

CHAPTER IV

Mock War-Scene at the Chief's House.

War Ceremonies and Dances at Natondre Described--The Great
Chief of Nambukaluku--The Dances continued--A Fijian Feast--A
Native Orator--The Ceremonies concluded--The Journey continued--A
Wonderful Fungus--The bark of the rare Golden Dove leads to its
Capture--Return to more Civilised Parts--The Author as Guest of a
high Fijian Prince and Princess--A _souvenir_ of Seddon--Arrival
at Suva.

Masirewa soon arrived and I learned that there were some v