tinued
struggling for his life, when I lost sight of him, and the men on their
return said that they saw him below the waters at glimpses, sinking
deeper and deeper, his arms stretched out and his body to all appearance
stiff, but they found it impossible to save him. Presently afterwards
the sea, as if satisfied with the prey it had received, became
comparatively calm, and the squall subsided. The poor fellow who was
drowned in this singular manner was a fine young man, twenty-seven years
of age, the only son of a widowed mother. He was the best sailor on
board, and beloved by every one who was acquainted with him. The event
occurred on the 11th of November 1835, the vessel was the 'London
Merchant' Steamship, commanded by Captain Whittingham. Wonderful indeed
are the ways of Providence.

I experienced some difficulty in landing at Lisbon, the custom-house
officers being exceedingly dilatory in examining the baggage. I had yet
more difficulty in obtaining a lodging, but at last found one, dark,
dirty, and exceedingly expensive, without attendance. I shall not
trouble you with a description of Lisbon, for as I have much that is
important to communicate I must not waste paper with uninteresting
details. I will merely observe that it is a noble town, situated on
seven hills on the left bank of the Tagus, the houses are very lofty,
like castles, the streets are in general precipitously steep, and no
animals of burden but mules, asses, and oxen can traverse them with
safety. I found the streets by no means so dirty as they have been
represented, and at night they are tolerably well lighted, but between
the hours of nine and twelve they swarm with robbers and assassins.

I should have written to you before, but I wished to transmit in my first
letter a stock of information which would enable you at once to form some
idea as to the state of this country; and in order to acquire such I have
visited every part of Lisbon, entered into discourse with the people on
all occasions, and have made a journey of nearly one hundred miles about
the country, during which I visited Cintra and Mafra, at the former of
which places I remained four days, making excursions in the meanwhile on
foot or on a mule amongst the mountains, and visiting whatever villages
are contained within its beautiful and picturesque neighbourhood.

In Lisbon carelessness for religion of any kind seems to prevail. The
people appear in general to have sha