caligers are close to the Church of Santa Maria
l'Antica. Juliet's tomb, "of red Verona marble," is in the garden of the
_Orfanotrofio_, between the Via Cappucini and the Adige. It is not "that
ancient vault where all the kindred of the Capulets lie," which has long
since been destroyed. Since 1814 Verona had been under Austria's sway,
and had "treacherously" forgotten her republican traditions.]

[312] {562}[Francesco Can Grande della Scala died in 1329. It was under
his roof that Dante learned

"... how salt his food who fares
Upon another's bread--how steep his path
Who treadeth up and down another's stairs."

For anecdotes of Can Grande, see _Commedia, etc._, by E. H. Plumptre,
D.D., 1886, I. cxx., cxxi.; and compare _Dante at Verona_, by D. G.
Rossetti, _Works_, 1886, i. 1-17.]

[313] [Ippolito Pindemonte, the modern Tibullus (1753-1828). (See
_Letters_, 1900, iv. 127, note 4.)]

[314] [Claudian's famous old man of Verona, "_qui suburbium numquam
egressus est_."

"Indocilis rerum, vicinae nescius urbis,
Adspectu fruitur liberiore poli."

C. Claudiani _Opera_, lii., _Epigrammata_, ii. lines 9, 10 (ed. 1821,
iii. 427).]

[315] ["In the amphitheatre ... crowds collected after the sittings of
the Congress, to witness dramatic representations.... But for the
costumes, a spectator might have imagined he was witnessing a
resurrection of the ancient Romans."--_Congress, etc._, by M. de
Chateaubriand, 1838, i. 76. This was on the 24th of November. Catalani
sang. Rossini's cantata was performed with tremendous applause. On the
next day the august visitors witnessed an illumination of the city.
"Leur attention s'est principalement arrete sur le superbe portail de
l'eglise Sainte-Agnes, qui brillait de mille feux, au milieu desquels se
lisait l'inscription suivante en lettres de grandeur colossale:

'_A Cesare Augusta Verona esultante_.'"

--_Le Moniteur_, December 14, 1822.]

[316] {563}[Alexander I. (Paulowitsch), 1777-1825, succeeded his father
in 1801. He began his reign well. Taxation was diminished, judicial
penalties were remitted, universities were founded and reorganized,
personal servitude was abolished or restricted throughout the empire. At
the height of his power and influence, when he was regarded as the
Liberator of Europe, he granted a Constitution to Poland, based on
liberal if not democratic principles (June 21, 1815). But after a time
he reverted to absolutism.