foreigner, in passing through this beggarly and ruinous suburb,
conceives such an idea of misery and meanness, as all the wealth and
magnificence of London and Westminster are afterwards unable to
destroy. A friend of mine, who brought a Parisian from Dover in his own
post-chaise, contrived to enter Southwark after it was dark, that his
friend might not perceive the nakedness of this quarter. The stranger
was much pleased with the great number of shops full of merchandize,
lighted up to the best advantage. He was astonished at the display of
riches in Lombard-Street and Cheapside. The badness of the pavement
made him find the streets twice as long as they were. They alighted in
Upper Brook-Street by Grosvenor-Square; and when his conductor told him
they were then about the middle of London, the Frenchman declared, with
marks of infinite surprize, that London was very near as long as Paris.

On my arrival at Dover I payed off my coachman, who went away with a
heavy heart. He wanted much to cross the sea, and endeavoured to
persuade me to carry the coach and horses to the other side. If I had
been resolved to set out immediately for the South, perhaps I should
have taken his advice. If I had retained him at the rate of twenty
guineas per month, which was the price he demanded, and begun my
journey without hesitation, I should travel more agreeably than I can
expect to do in the carriages of this country; and the difference of
the expence would be a mere trifle. I would advise every man who
travels through France to bring his own vehicle along with him, or at
least to purchase one at Calais or Boulogne, where second-hand berlins
and chaises may be generally had at reasonable rates. I have been
offered a very good berlin for thirty guineas: but before I make the
purchase, I must be better informed touching the different methods of
travelling in this country.

Dover is commonly termed a den of thieves; and I am afraid it is not
altogether without reason, it has acquired this appellation. The people
are said to live by piracy in time of war; and by smuggling and
fleecing strangers in time of peace: but I will do them the justice to
say, they make no distinction between foreigners and natives. Without
all doubt a man cannot be much worse lodged and worse treated in any
part of Europe; nor will he in any other place meet with more flagrant
instances of fraud, imposition, and brutality. One would imagine they
had formed a gen