want of accommodation.
Notwithstanding this check, he was so very abject and importunate, that
we gave him a crown a-piece, and he retired.
The first thing I did when I arrived at Dover this last time, was to
send for the master of a packet-boat, and agree with him to carry us to
Boulogne at once, by which means I saved the expence of travelling by
land from Calais to this last place, a journey of four-and-twenty
miles. The hire of a vessel from Dover to Boulogne is precisely the
same as from Dover to Calais, five guineas; but this skipper demanded
eight, and, as I did not know the fare, I agreed to give him six. We
embarked between six and seven in the evening, and found ourselves in a
most wretched hovel, on board what is called a Folkstone cutter. The
cabin was so small that a dog could hardly turn in it, and the beds put
me in mind of the holes described in some catacombs, in which the
bodies of the dead were deposited, being thrust in with the feet
foremost; there was no getting into them but end-ways, and indeed they
seemed so dirty, that nothing but extreme necessity could have obliged
me to use them. We sat up all night in a most uncomfortable situation,
tossed about by the sea, cold, arid cramped and weary, and languishing
for want of sleep. At three in the morning the master came down, and
told us we were just off the harbour of Boulogne; but the wind blowing
off shore, he could not possibly enter, and therefore advised us to go
ashore in the boat. I went upon deck to view the coast, when he pointed
to the place where he said Boulogne stood, declaring at the same time
we were within a short mile of the harbour's mouth. The morning was
cold and raw, and I knew myself extremely subject to catch cold;
nevertheless we were all so impatient to be ashore, that I resolved to
take his advice. The boat was already hoisted out, and we went on board
of it, after I had paid the captain and gratified his crew. We had
scarce parted from the ship, when we perceived a boat coming towards us
from the shore; and the master gave us to understand, it was coming to
carry us into the harbour. When I objected to the trouble of shifting
from one boat to another in the open sea, which (by the bye) was a
little rough; he said it was a privilege which the watermen of Boulogne
had, to carry all passengers ashore, and that this privilege he durst
not venture to infringe. This was no time nor place to remonstrate. The
French boat came al
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