many leagues." At
length we reach Scarba, Mull is swiftly gained, and there, on the other
side of us, not, however, to be visited now, are Staffa and Iona.
Altogether, we seem in a deserted district. It is only now and then we
see a house, or gentleman's residence, and, except where we pass some
slate works on our right, the rocks and hills around seem utterly
unutilised. Occasionally we see a few sheep or cattle feeding, and once
or twice we are cheered with arable land, and crops growing on it; but
the rule is to leave Nature pretty much to herself. It is the same on
the water. We on board the fairy _Elena_, and the gulls following in our
wake, are almost entirely monarchs of all we survey. On we glide up the
Frith of Lorne, which seems to narrow as we come near to Kerrera, which
has on its lofty sea-cliff the ancient Castle of Glen; and there before
us lies Oban, or the white bay, in all its charms of wood and hill and
water. Oban is a growing place, and we land where the steamer which
brings on the tourists from Iona has just put down its passengers,
amongst whom I see Dr. Charles Mackay, who, in the evening of his days,
much affects this delightful retreat--a place, I imagine, quiet enough in
winter, but now seemingly the head-quarters of the human race. There are
yachts all round, but none equalling the _Elena_. The hotels which line
the bay are handsome, beautifully fitted up, and the proprietors are
looking forward to the 12th of August and the advent of the English. All
the shops are doing a roaring trade, and as to eggs, not one has been
seen in Oban these four days. Here come the coaches, something of a
cross between omnibuses and wagonettes, which run to Glencoe and Fort
William, and other spots more or less famed in Scottish story; and here
is the band to remind one of watering-places nearer home. I find here
the original Christy's Minstrel (I never thought of finding him so far
North), and the proprietor of an American bazaar, who tells me that he
has been taking his 40 pounds a night, but who finds himself too well
known to the natives, and intimates that he will have to move off
shortly; and last, but not least, a gentleman who modestly enters himself
in the fashionable announcements as Smith, of London! I should like to
see that Smith. I dare say I should know him; but at present I have not
succeeded in running him down. If he is going to stay long at Oban, it
strikes me he should have ple