es in Garsdale, in a milder
clime and amidst more attractive scenery. Some four hundred feet below
us the river may be observed winding over its rocky bed in the direction
of Sedbergh, while we get extensive views on the west. Presently we see
the Moorside Inn, a far-famed hostelry abounding in mountain dew,
standing at the head of the valleys--the Wensleydale, winding eastward
towards Hawes; the Garsdale Valley, going westward towards Sedbergh; and
the Mallerstang, leading northwards towards Kirkby Stephen.

At Ais Gill Moor the line attains its highest altitude, 1,167 feet above
the sea, from whence it falls uninterruptedly down to Carlisle. The
country here is very wild and rugged. Stone walls mark the division of
the properties, and scarcely any house can be seen. On the west the
grandly impressive form of Wild Boar Fell rises. Still higher on the
east is Mallerstang Edge. In the winter you can well believe that along
this valley sweeps the wind in bitter blasts. Three miles after we have
left the Moor Loch we are in Cumberland, and are reminded of other days
when all the old manor-houses and other edifices were built for defence
against the invasions of the Picts. Though the upper part of the Eden
valley is now occupied by a few industrious farmers and peaceful
shepherds, we instinctively think of the time when the slogan of border
chiefs and their clansmen sent a thrill of terror through Mallerstang,
and when sword and fire did terrible work to man and beast. Here is Wild
Boar Fell, where, says tradition, the last wild boar was killed by one of
the Musgrave family; and there in a narrow dale, overlooked by mountains
and washed by the Eden, are the crumbling ruins of a square tower--all,
alas! that remains of Pendragon Castle. About a mile before we come to
Kirkby Stephen we pass on our right Wharton Hall, the seat of the now
extinct dukes of that name. Near the town are two objects of especial
interest--the Ewbank Scar and Stenkrith Falls. The sight from Ormside
Viaduct is wonderfully fine. Appleby, as seen from the line, has a very
pleasing appearance. The railway runs past Eden Hall, the residence of
Sir Richard Musgrave, the chief of the clan of that name. At the summit
of a hill, near the Eden Lacy Viaduct, we find the remains of a Druid's
temple, known by the name of "Long Meg and her Daughters." Close by is
Lazonby, a village in the midst of interesting historical associations.
As we pass thr