halmia. I got out of my portmanteau
for them some sugar of lead; but it is inconceivable the difficulty I had
to get a vessel for making it into a lotion--bottles or phials were
totally unknown, not even cups were to be procured. At one time I
thought of a gourd-shell, but there was not one _dried_ in the town; so
they told me. I might have lent them my drinking-cup, but then I wanted
to prepare a large quantity to be left behind and to be used
occasionally. I forget now what was the expedient adopted, but I think
it was the last named-one, but of course only making sufficient for
immediate use. I left a quantity behind me in powder, with directions to
dilute it considerably whenever any vessel could be found; warning the
people, however, of its poisonous nature if taken by mouth.

One man came imploring me to cure him of deafness, but I could not
undertake his case. In any of those countries a medical missionary would
be of incalculable benefit to the people.

There are ancient remains about the town, but not considerable in any
respect. It is often taken for granted that this is the Ramoth-Gilead of
Scripture, but I believe without any other reason than that, from the
copious springs of water, there must always have been an important city
there. The old name, however, would rather lead us north-eastwards to
the hills of _Jela'ad_, where there are also springs and ruins.

On leaving the town we experienced a good deal of annoyance from the
Moslem population, one of whom stole a gun from a gentleman of the party,
and when detected, for a long time refused to give it up. Of course, in
the end it was returned; but I was told afterwards that the people had a
notion that we ought to pay them something for visiting their town, just
as we pay the wild Arabs for visiting Jerash. What a difference from the
time of the strong Egyptian Government when Lord Lindsay was there!

At a distance of perhaps half or three-quarters of an hour there is a
_Weli_ called _Nebi Osha_; that is to say, a sepulchre, or commemorative
station of the Prophet Joshua, celebrated all over the country for the
exceeding magnificence of the prospect it commands in every direction.
In order to reach this, we had to pass over hills and plains newly taken
into cultivation for vineyards, mile after mile, in order to supply a
recent call for the peculiar grapes of the district at Jerusalem to be
sent to London as raisins.

Arrived at the Weli, we