lace is called the Weli, or tomb, of a Persian Moslem
saint named _Sardoni_. But it should be recollected that in Arabic the
name _'Ajam_, or Persia, is often used to signify any unknown distant
country to the east.

At _'Ain el Jadoor_ we found water springing out of the rocks, among
vineyards and fig and walnut trees, olives also, and pomegranates--a
beautiful oasis, redeemed from the devastation of Bedaween by the strong
hand of the town population. Near this the Christian Shaikh Abbas, being
in our company, was met by his venerable mother and his son Bakhi.

In every direction the town of Es-Salt is environed by fruitful gardens,
the produce of which finds a market in Nabloos and Jerusalem. The
scenery reminded me of the Lebanon in its green aspect of industry and
wealth.

Entering the town we dismounted at the house of Shaikh Yusuf, and took
our refreshment on the open terrace, on the shady side of a wall.

Some of us walked about and visited the two Christian churches: they are
both named "St George," and are very poor in furniture. Of course they
have over the door the universal picture in these countries of St George
on his prancing gray horse. This obtains for them some respect from the
Mohammedans, who also revere that martial and religious hero. Inside the
churches we found some pictures with Russian writing upon the frames; the
people informed us that these were presents from the Emperor Nicholas,
which is worthy of notice.

The ignorance of the priests here is proverbial all over Palestine. I
have heard it told of them as a common practice, that they recite the
Lord's Prayer and the _Fathhah_, or opening chapter of the Koran,
alternately, on the ground that these are both very sublime and
beautiful; and it is said that they baptize in the name of the Father,
Son, and Holy Ghost, and the Virgin Mary. There is reason to believe
them very grossly ignorant; but it may be that some of these reports
about them emanate from the Roman Catholic authorities in Jerusalem, who
never hesitate at propagating slanders to the detriment of non-Romanists.

In a church porch I found a school of dirty ragged children reading the
Psalms from the small English printed edition; not, however, learning to
read by means of the alphabet or spelling, but learning to know the forms
of words by rote; boys and girls together, all very slightly dressed, and
one of the boys stark naked.

People came to me to be cured of opht