i_, or metropolis, of another dominant
family--that of _Ibn Simhhan_--within the mountains; but it proved far
longer than was expected.

We were conducted due south, yet so far away from the line of hills that
we missed the Roman temple of _M'zeera'a_, which I do not know that, to
this day, any European but myself has seen. {136}

To _Nebi Sari_, which is a pretty weli, two hour only from Jaffa. To
_Runtieh_, which is a poor place. Then south-eastwards to _Teereh_; near
which we started a gazelle across the fields.

In that part of the country the population has so greatly increased of
late years that there was a scarcity of land for cultivation; and at the
end of autumn the villages contest the right of ploughing there by fights
of fire-arms.

Suddenly we turned into a valley, at an acute angle with our previous
road. This is named _Wadi el Kharnoob_--probably from some conspicuous
karoobah-tree. In ascending the hill, I looked back, and had a beautiful
prospect of Jaffa, and a white ship sailing on the sea.

We continued ascending higher and higher. Before us was a large building
on a single hill, which they called _Dair Musha'al_. Passed the ruined
village, _Hhanoonah_. On our right hand, among trees, was _Desrah_.
Passed through _Shukbeh_. How different is the mountain air from that of
the plain, so light and so pure!

Descended a little to _Shibtain_, where there was a great ancient well;
and being surrounded by hills, the place was very hot. Then for some
time over very dangerous paths, mounting upwards, till we reached the
region of a cool breeze, such as I once heard a peasant say was "worth a
thousand purses" on a summer's day.

Saw _Ras Kerker_, the place of our destination, high above, in a very
remarkable situation; but how to get at it was a puzzle which patient
perseverance alone could solve.

We rode round and round one hill after another, till we reached _Dair
'Ammar_. Then opened upon us one of those few prospects which in a
lifetime impress themselves indelibly on the mind. This was not lovely,
but stern, consisting chiefly of a wild, dark alternation of lower hills,
with the valleys between them.

The villages hereabouts bear an appearance of prosperity--perhaps because
Turkish officials are never seen there; but the people of _Dair 'Ammar_
behaved rudely. Down, deep deep down we went, leading our horses, in
order to rise afterwards to a higher elevation. At length we reached a