odd-looking humanity--all is
at variance with anything the traveler has before seen. To successfully
view Canton requires some urbanity, a wealth of patience, and a stomach
not readily overthrown by gruesome and unusual sights. And, further, the
visitor must never forget that his vision is looking back from one to
two thousand years, and that the hordes of human beings congesting the
labyrinth of streets not seven feet wide, speak of a great nation as it
was, which to-day is the oldest living nation on earth. You, of the
fast-marching West, are viewing at its fountainhead a race for which the
word "conservative" was most likely first called into use. It was the
great Li Hung Chang who stingingly rebuked some patronizing Englishmen
who were urging the astute old statesman to advocate certain social
reforms in China, by saying: "Why, we Chinese look upon England merely
as an interesting experiment in civilization, wondering where you'll be
five hundred years hence."

The only impress that Europe and Christianity have visibly made upon
Canton is the French cathedral of the twin spires that you see near the
place where your steamer lands. In all Canton there is not a wheeled
vehicle, street-car, hotel, or mouthful of food appealing to the
convenience or appetite of the visitor from the West; and apart from
your own coterie of sight-seers, you may for days be about the streets
of the vast city without seeing a person wearing the habiliments of
Europe. That section of Canton known as Shameen, in reality an island
suburb, is set apart under concessions to the United States and certain
European powers, and the consuls, missionaries and foreign merchants
there dwell surrounded by many of the comforts of home.

[Illustration: TEMPLE OF THE FIVE HUNDRED GENII, CANTON]

Few venture upon leaving Hong Kong for Canton until satisfying reports
are received assuring that no immediate outbreak is apprehended of the
known Cantonese hatred for foreigners, nor until a vast amount of
letter-writing and telegraphing for guide and chair-bearers has been
gone through with, and the steamboat company has placed the craft of
their line at your command, to be used as hotels, restaurants, and
otherwise as bases of supplies. Confident that you would be met at the
landing by the guide of whom you had reassuring reports, and with whom
you believed you had been in correspondence, a gorgeously-clad,
good-looking fellow greets you at your state-room do