the Verdi rage of our old Genoa time, they were again doing the
"Trovatore." It seemed rubbish on the whole to me, but was very fairly
done. I think "La Tenco," the prima donna, will soon be a great hit in
London. She is a very remarkable singer and a fine actress, to the best
of my judgment on such premises. There seems to be no opera here, at
present. There was a Festa in St. Peter's to-day, and the Pope passed to
the Cathedral in state. We were all there.

We leave here, please God, on Friday morning, and post to Florence in
three days and a half. We came here by Vetturino. Upon the whole, the
roadside inns are greatly improved since our time. Half-past three and
half-past four have been, however, our usual times of rising on the
road.

I was in my old place at the Coliseum this morning, and it was as grand
as ever. With that exception the ruined part of Rome--the real original
Rome--looks smaller than my remembrance made it. It is the only place on
which I have yet found that effect. We are in the old hotel.

You are going to Bonchurch I suppose? will be there, perhaps, when this
letter reaches you? I shall be pleased to think of you as at home again,
and making the commodious family mansion look natural and home-like. I
don't like to think of my room without anybody to peep into it now and
then. Here is a world of travelling arrangements for me to settle, and
here are Collins and Egg looking sideways at me with an occasional
imploring glance as beseeching me to settle it. So I leave off.
Good-night.

Ever, my dearest Georgy,
Most affectionately yours.

[Sidenote: Sir James Emerson Tennent.]

HOTEL DES ILES BRITANNIQUES, PIAZZA DEL POPOLO, ROME,
_Monday, Nov. 14th, 1853._

MY DEAR TENNENT,

As I never made a good bargain in my life--except once, when, on going
abroad, I let my house on excellent terms to an admirable tenant, who
never paid anything--I sent Edward into the Casa Dies yesterday morning,
while I invested the premises from the outside, and carefully surveyed
them. It is a very clean, large, bright-looking house at the corner of
the Via Gregoriana; not exactly in a part of Rome I should pick out for
living in, and on what I should be disposed to call the wrong side of
the street. However, this is not to the purpose. Signor Dies has no idea
of letting an apartment for a sho