, as has been stated
elsewhere, this is but a sorry affair of a meal at the best; it
consists of nothing more than a cup or two of coffee, with some
sweetish cakes; but we took care to order, over and above, a moderate
supply of white bread and butter, and we consumed it all, much to our
host's surprise and edification. Then came the settling of the bill,
which seemed to please him better, and we were once more _en route_.

Our point to-day was Hayde, a town which our informants described as
distant from Tetchen about seven stunden,--that is to say, seven hours'
good walking, in other words, from twenty-one to twenty-four English
miles. There was nothing in this announcement calculated to alarm us,
for we had compassed the day before at least five-and-twenty miles, and
though somewhat over-wrought when we first came in, we were now fresh
and vigorous. But I am bound to add that either the miles proved more
numerous than we had been led to expect, or that we were in bad case
for walking. I have seldom suffered more from blistered feet and
positive weariness, than I did on my march to Hayde.

The sun was shining brightly in a cloudless sky, when we quitted
Tetchen. The cool air of the morning still, however, blew around us,
and the landscape which seemed so fair even in the last glimmering of
twilight, appeared now more beautiful than ever. Our route lay up the
face of one of the hills by which, on all sides, Tetchen is surrounded,
and we saw before us the long and regular sweep of the high road by
which it behoved us to travel. For a brief space, however, a foot-way
through a succession of green fields, all of them sparkling with the
dew, was at our command, and we gratefully availed ourselves of it; for
it is one of the advantages which a pedestrian enjoys over the
traveller, either in a carriage or on horseback, that, provided he be
sure of the direction in which his object lies, he may cast both
highways and bridle-paths behind him.

The effect which is produced upon a Protestant traveller by the
frequent recurrence, in Catholic countries, of crucifixes, chapels, and
images, both by the road-side and elsewhere, has been frequently
described. At first, you are affected with a sense almost of awe; which
even to the last does not wholly evaporate; especially if you find, as
we did this morning, that by the inhabitants, these symbols are held in
profound veneration. In passing from Hernskrietchen to Tetchen, such
objec