hungry, and
foot-sore. Our reception was not very cordial, nor did we this time, I
am sorry to say, succeed in perfectly thawing the ice in which the
landlady had encased herself; but we took her bad humour patiently,
showed her that we were well disposed to be merry, and obtained in five
minutes, first a very tolerable apartment, and by-and-by the best room
in the house. Perhaps, indeed, it may be as well to state, that our
first reception, even in Bohemia, was not always flattering. Yet
somehow or another, it invariably came to pass, with the solitary
exception of Hayde, where our usual tactics failed us, that before we
had been ten minutes under the roof of a Bohemian innkeeper, not only
he, but his whole household, were at our devotion. Neither was any
marvellous art required to bring this result about. We acted merely as
persons of common sense will always act in similar situations. We
turned the landlady's ill-humour or stiffness into a joke, spoke bad
German, mixed it with French and English, and won her heart by showing
that we were neither sensitive nor fastidious. And the landlady's heart
being fairly won, all the rest was easy. The husband, as in duty bound,
fell into his wife's views, and the servants took their cue from their
superiors. In Hayde, however, though we so far gained our end, that a
good supper with a comfortable apartment were afforded us, we have no
right to boast of our progress in the hostess's affections. She kept
cruelly aloof from us during the whole of our sojourn, and made us pay
at our departure just twice as much as, for similar fare, we were
charged at any other gasthof in Bohemia.

CHAPTER II.

OUR LANDLADY AND WASHERWOMAN. THE EINSIEDLERSTEIN. ITS DUNGEONS AND
HALL. ITS HISTORY. INSCRIPTION OVER THE HERMIT'S GRAVE. LOSE OUR WAY.
GUIDED BY A PEASANT. HIS CONVERSATION. MISTAKEN FOR ITALIAN MUSICIANS.
GABEL.

Hayde, which is a burgh town, having its burgomaster and other civic
authorities, contains a population of between two and three thousand
souls, and can boast of a large warehouse, or handlung, in which are
exhibited and sold the mirrors and other articles in glass that are
fabricated at Burgstein. Like most German towns of the same size which
I have visited, it is exceedingly clean, and its environs are laid out
with a good deal of taste. For the Germans, while in winter they shut
themselves up in their houses, all the doors and windows of which are
kept hermetically