man would not permit me to be the
loser of it. When I add, that she was in a state during which running
must have been both inconvenient and hurtful to her, the strength of
the principle which urged her to bring me my knife will be better
understood.
Arnau is an old-fashioned town, with a wide market-place, in the centre
of which stand two colossal statues, representing two warriors in
complete armour, each armed with a sword. The people told us they were
of very ancient date, and represented the two knights, by whom, in old
times, the town was founded. There is, besides, a convent of Franciscan
monks in the immediate neighbourhood, which contains eighty brothers; a
clumsy pile, evidently of modern construction, and resembling in its
exterior a manufactory, much more than a house of religious persons.
One of the brothers we met in the town, to whom the children seemed to
pay much respect. His dress was a brown coarse frock, a bare head, with
a shaven crown, bare legs, sandals for his feet, and a rosary of black
beads fastened round his middle. I asked him the way to Troutenau, and
received a very short, and somewhat unsatisfactory answer.
We did not halt in Arnau, neither were we tempted to solicit admission
into the convent. I had been initiated into all the mysteries of such a
place of abode long ago; and my young companion appeared more anxious
to reach Aderspach and Schnee-Koppee as speedily as possible, than to
take his first lesson in monachism here. It was well, too, that,
retaining our resolution of passing that night at Troutenau, we had
self-denial enough to pass the monastery by; for a long and toilsome
way was before us, which we did not compass till past seven o'clock. No
doubt the march was prolific in objects to charm the sense of sight. As
we drew towards them, the snowy mountains assumed continually a bolder
and more striking aspect; while, several of the villages, and one
schloss, which was undergoing repair, drew forth our liveliest
admiration. But the journey proved to be, upon the whole, both tedious
and toilsome; and right glad were we, when, on gaining the summit of a
steep ascent, we beheld Troutenau at our feet. We made directly for the
inn, which was recommended as the best; and, except that the house was
full of workmen, our chamber small, and our beds detestable, we have no
right to put down the Gasthof zum Weissen Ross, as one of the bad
places of call on the march to Schnee-Koppee.
Th
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