in position with a couple of tacks. The first runner is
laid touching the spacer and a little back from the edge to give room for
the cross-bar, and fastened by means of short tacks, for which holes had
better be drilled in the runner to prevent splitting. The spacer is now
transferred to the other side of the runner, and the second runner is
fastened on above it; and so on till all the runners are in position. The
square should be used occasionally to make sure that the tops of the
runners are parallel to one another. The other side having been treated in
like manner, any spare wood at the top is sawn off.

The notches for the front cross-bars between drawers are cut out with a
very sharp narrow chisel.

The Top and Bottom.--Make the top of the same thickness as the sides; the
bottom of somewhat stouter wood. If the bottom is cut a bit longer than the
width of the case, and neatly bevelled off, it will help to smarten the
appearance of the cabinet.

When fixing the sides to the bottom and top get the distance correct by
placing the top and bottom drawers in position, and insert a piece of thin
card between one end of the drawer and the side. This will ensure the
necessary clearance being allowed for.

The Back.--Cut this out of thin wood. The top of a sweetstuff box-costing
about a halfpenny--will do well enough. It should be quite rectangular
and make a close fit, as it plays the important part of keeping the case
square laterally. Bevel its back edges off a bit. Push it in against the
back ends of the runners, and fix it by picture brads driven in behind.

The front bars should now be cut to a good fit and glued in the notches.
This completes the construction.

Drop handles for the drawers may be made out of semicircles of brass wire
with the ends turned up. The handles are held up to the drawer by loops of
finer wire passed through the front and clinched inside.

The finishing of the outside must be left to the maker's taste. Varnishing,
or polishing with warmed beeswax, will add to the general appearance, and
keep out damp.

The total cost of a ten-drawer cabinet ought not to exceed eighteen pence.

A Tool Cabinet.

The wooden cabinet shown in Fig. 30 is constructed, as regards its case, in
the same way as that just described, but the drawers are built up of
several pieces. The over-all dimensions of the cabinet represented are as
follows: Height, including plinth, 25 inches; width, 17-3/8 inches; dept