square (rotation will betray a bad wobble), and solder the three
parts together with the blow-lamp.

Mount the rotor squarely by the spindle points between two pieces of wood
held lightly in the vice, and, with the aid of a gauge fixed to the piece
nearest the wheel, true up the line of the vanes. (Lathe useful here.)

The Steam Pipe is 15 inches (or more) of 5/16-inch copper tubing, well
annealed. To assist the bending of it into a ring one needs some circular
object of the same diameter as the interior diameter of the ring round
which to curve it. I procured a tooth-powder box of the right size, and
nailed it firmly to a piece of board. Then I bevelled off the end of the
pipe to the approximately correct angle, laid it against the box, and drove
in a nail to keep it tight up. Bending was then an easy matter, a nail
driven in here and there holding the pipe until the ring was complete. I
then soldered the end to the standing part, and detached the ring for
flattening on one side with a file and emery cloth. This done, I bored a
hole through the tube at F to open up the blind end of the ring.

Attaching the ring to disc D is effected as follows:--Tin the contact
faces of the ring and disc pretty heavily with solder, after making poppet
marks round the guide circles so that they may not be lost under the
solder. The ring must be pressed tightly against its seat while heating is
done with the lamp. An extra pair of hands makes things easier at this
point. Be careful not to unsolder the spindle bearing, a thing which cannot
happen if the bearing is kept cool by an occasional drop or two of water. A
little extra solder should be applied round the points where the ports will
be.

The Steam Ports.--These are drilled (with a 1/32-inch twist drill), at an
angle of about 30 degrees to the plate, along the circle already scribed.
If you have any doubt as to your boiler's capacity, begin with one hole
only, and add a second if you think it advisable. As already remarked,
pressure must not be sacrificed to steam flow.

Lubricators.--These are short pieces of tubing hollowed at one end by a
round file of the same diameter as the bearings. A little "Tinol" is
smeared over the surfaces to be joined, and the lubricators are placed in
position and heated with the blow-lamp until the solder runs. To prevent
the oil flowing too freely, the lubricators should be provided with
airtight wooden plugs.

Escape Pipes.--The pipe for the ex