hospitable dwellings of prosperous planters, and the huts of Indians
fortunate enough to dwell in this tropical "Garden of Eden." The day
was hot and thirst-provoking, so I stopped near some large orange trees
loaded with ripe fruit and asked the Indian proprietress to sell me
ten cents' worth. In exchange for the tiny silver real she dragged out
a sack containing more than fifty oranges! I was fain to request her
to permit us to take only as many as our pockets could hold; but she
seemed so surprised and pained, we had to fill our saddle-bags as well.

At the end of the day we crossed the Urubamba River on a fine
steel bridge and found ourselves in the prosperous little town of
Quillabamba, the provincial capital. Its main street was lined with
well-filled shops, evidence of the fact that this is one of the
principal gateways to the Peruvian rubber country which, with the
high price of rubber then prevailing, 1911, was the scene of unusual
activity. Passing through Quillabamba and up a slight hill beyond
it, we came to the long colonnades of the celebrated sugar estate of
Santa Ana founded by the Jesuits, where all explorers who have passed
this way since the days of Charles Wiener have been entertained. He
says that he was received here "with a thousand signs of friendship"
("mille temoignages d'amitie"). We were received the same way. Even
in a region where we had repeatedly received valuable assistance from
government officials and generous hospitality from private individuals,
our reception at Santa Ana stands out as particularly delightful.

Don Pedro Duque took great interest in enabling us to get all possible
information about the little-known region into which we proposed
to penetrate. Born in Colombia, but long resident in Peru, he was
a gentleman of the old school, keenly interested, not only in the
administration and economic progress of his plantation, but also in
the intellectual movements of the outside world. He entered with zest
into our historical-geographical studies. The name Uiticos was new
to him, but after reading over with us our extracts from the Spanish
chronicles he was sure that he could help us find it. And help us he
did. Santa Ana is less than thirteen degrees south of the equator;
the elevation is barely 2000 feet; the "winter" nights are cool;
but the heat in the middle of the day is intense. Nevertheless,
our host was so energetic that as a result of his efforts a number
of the best-