Unless one is traveling in Peru on some easily understood
matter, such as prospecting for mines or representing one of the
great importing and commission houses, or actually peddling goods,
one cannot help arousing the natural suspicions of a people to whom
traveling on muleback for pleasure is unthinkable, and scientific
exploration for its own sake is incomprehensible. Of course, if the
explorers arrive accompanied by a gendarme it is perfectly evident
that the enterprise has the approval and probably the financial
backing of the government. It is surmised that the explorers are
well paid, and what would be otherwise inconceivable becomes merely
one of the ordinary experiences of life. South American governments
almost without exception are paternalistic, and their citizens are
led to expect that all measures connected with research, whether it be
scientific, economic, or social, are to be conducted by the government
and paid for out of the national treasury. Individual enterprise is
not encouraged. During all my preceding exploration in Peru I had
had such an easy time that I not only forgot, but failed to realize,
how often an ever-present gendarme, provided through the courtesy of
President Leguia's government, had quieted suspicions and assured us
a cordial welcome.

Now, however, when without a gendarme we entered the smart little
town of Lampa, we found ourselves immediately and unquestionably the
objects of extreme suspicion and distrust. Yet we could not help
admiring the well-swept streets, freshly whitewashed houses, and
general air of prosperity and enterprise. The gobernador of the town
lived on the main street in a red-tiled house, whose courtyard and
colonnade were probably two hundred years old. He had heard nothing
of our undertaking from the government. His friends urged him to take
some hostile action. Fortunately, our arrieros, respectable men of high
grade, although strangers in Lampa, were able to allay his suspicions
temporarily. We were not placed under arrest, although I am sure
his action was not approved by the very suspicious town councilors,
who found it far easier to suggest reasons for our being fugitives
from justice than to understand the real object of our journey.

The very fact that we were bound for Lake Parinacochas, a place well
known in Lampa, added to their suspicion. It seems that Lampa is famous
for its weavers, who utilize the wool of the countless herds of sheep,
alpacas,