r,
probably used for grinding paint; a broken stone war club; and a
broken compact stone mortar and pestle possibly used for grinding
corn. Two stones, a foot and a half long, roughly rounded, with
a shallow groove across the middle of the flatter sides, resembled
sinkers used by fishermen to hold down large nets, although ten times
larger than any I had ever seen used. Perhaps they were to tie down
roofs in a gale. There were a few potsherds lying on the surface of
the ground, so weathered as to have lost whatever decoration they once
had. We did no excavating. Callanga offers an interesting field for
archeological investigation. Unfortunately, we had heard nothing of
it previously, came upon it unexpectedly, and had but little time to
give it. After the first night camp in the midst of the dead city we
made the discovery that although it seemed to be entirely deserted, it
was, as a matter of fact, well populated! I was reminded of Professor
T. D. Seymour's story of his studies in the ruins of ancient Greece. We
wondered what the fleas live on ordinarily.

Our next stopping-place was the small town of Andaray, whose thatched
houses are built chiefly of stone plastered with mud. Near it we
encountered two men with a mule, which they said they were taking
into town to sell and were willing to dispose of cheaply. The Tejadas
could not resist the temptation to buy a good animal at a bargain,
although the circumstances were suspicious. Drawing on us for six gold
sovereigns, they smilingly added the new mule to the pack train; only
to discover on reaching Chuquibamba that they had purchased it from
thieves. We were able to clear our arrieros of any complicity in the
theft. Nevertheless, the owner of the stolen mule was unwilling to pay
anything for its return. So they lost their bargain and their gold. We
spent one night in Chuquibamba, with our friend Senor Benavides,
the sub-prefect, and once more took up the well-traveled route to
Arequipa. We left the Majes Valley in the afternoon and, as before,
spent the night crossing the desert.

About three o'clock in the morning--after we had been jogging steadily
along for about twelve hours in the dark and quiet of the night, the
only sound the shuffle of the mules' feet in the sand, the only sight
an occasional crescent-shaped dune, dimly visible in the starlight--the
eastern horizon began to be faintly illumined. The moon had long since
set. Could this be the approach of dawn